There's nothing quite like sitting along a live fashion catwalk, watching garments float by in endless procession, to get your adrenaline pumping.
When the entire fashion crew is present at a show, including designers, models, stylists, editors, journalists, and the social media pack, design — excellent design, that is — takes on a magical quality of its own.
When the Covid-19 pandemic rushed into our life approximately two years ago, it took away that thrill.
When lives were on the line, however, the lack of fashion weeks was hardly a cause for complaint. After all, it was universally accepted that Pakistan's fashion week extravaganza was in desperate need of a refresh. Designs had grown monotonous and too commercialised to the point of boredom. The catwalk had become 'celebri-ficated,' with theatrics and gimmickry taking the place of genuine design. It was agreed that the break would be beneficial for fashion, and that once the catwalk was laid out again, we would see greater design.
This spring, the catwalk seemed set to give the fashion industry a new lease on life. However, because to the pandemic's unpredictability, both the PFDC Fashion Week in Lahore and the Hum Showcase in Karachi have been cancelled. Is it possible for fashion to come back to life? Is it the case, and if so, how?
Early this year, the catwalk would fulfil its promise. Spring's possibilities were also intended to breathe new life into the fashion business, restoring the joy of attending a meticulously planned, live high-fashion show.
The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) in Lahore was planning a four-day collective designer display, with a 'phygital' format, to define the spring/summer sartorial agenda. A few weeks later, the Hum Network's couture-focused Hum Showcase was set to take place in Karachi for a three-day event. It was going to be an exciting month as venues were booked and designer lineups were finalised, with some of fashion's most well-known names on board.
However, in the midst of a pandemic, the excitement was premature. Both activities have been cancelled due to a recent outbreak of the coronavirus strain Omicron.
Footfall in the fashion industry
"The PFDC functions on a particular scale," explains Saad Ali, "and with all the current uncertainty, we couldn't promise that we could prepare for the event without any delays." We had to make a decision based on the current scenario, and we realised there were no guarantees that the event would not be cancelled at the last minute, despite our best efforts."
"Our ideas contained a lot of innovation and digitalization, but it was still going to be seen by a physical audience," he continues. We were also concerned that any last-minute modifications would result in a waste of our sponsors' resources. Our sponsors trust us to act properly after 12 years of successfully performed fashion weeks. We didn't want them to be in trouble for supporting an event at a time when Covid-19 infections were at an all-time high."
For identical reasons, the Hum Showcase was postponed. "Sponsors have been cautious to confirm because of the epidemic," says Saher Saad Yousuf, General Manager of Special Events at the Hum Network. They just will not put their money in at this time, and we have no choice except to postpone."
"I believe health problems, financial concerns, and travel constraints all played a hand in the Showcase being postponed," says Hum Showcase event director Rizwan Beyg. Sponsors are on edge right now due to the amount of trolling that occurs on social media. When they invest in a show, they naturally want to be seen in a positive light, but at this point in time, a single image of people crammed together at an event can lead to criticism.
"It's quite challenging logistically to conduct a fashion event and ensure that all Standard Operating Procedures [SOPs] are followed," he says. "Even if the audience is six feet apart, there is a full backstage area where models, designers, stylists, and make-up artists work side by side." For them to work with six-foot gaps between them, you'd need a pretty huge arena.
"Also, at Showcase, the models' pool has always included some foreign models, which would have been very difficult to handle with so many restrictions on international travel and ticket prices growing." And we didn't want to jeopardise the quality of our event by hiring models who didn't fulfil our high standards."
"Having said that, Showcase will most likely be a fall/winter event this year," Rizwan continues. We've always shown in the spring/summer, so the runway designs have always been cotton-based and in a light, summer palette. Perhaps this time we'll focus on a winter holiday theme, highlighting velvets and cosy layers. Showcase has been set in the spring/summer for the past three years; perhaps for the following three years, we can put out shows in the fall/winter."
All of this is fine and dandy, but the reality remains that a sizable contingent of mainstream designers had been lined up to participate in one or both of these events. Although a couple of them had recently presented solo shows with smaller guest lists, the majority of the designers hadn't walked the runway in almost two years. They were looking forward to showcasing their most current work on the runway – and then profiting from the resulting buzz and sales.
Before the PFDC revealed plans for a spring/summer fashion event, designer Hassan Sheheryar Yasin (HSY) had a full collection ready, which he had placed aside for a solo presentation. Instead, he had chosen to appear with the council. "I'll always be there for my council, and I'm looking forward to my show," he says. "They've chosen to reschedule the event now." "Whenever they decide to plan fashion week, I look forward to displaying on their platform once more."
He believes that planning a solo at the eleventh hour will be challenging now. "Sponsors usually have six-month calendars and plan ahead of time how they will allocate their resources. It'll be difficult to get them together at the last minute. In addition, a lot of planning is required, and it will soon be too hot in Lahore for an open-air exhibition," he points out.
There were rumours that numerous designers, including Nomi Ansari, Mohsin Naveed Ranjha, Sania Maskatiya, Mahgul Rashid, and HSY, were going to fly solo for select audiences before these two collective fashion shows were announced — only to vanish into the shadows again. Will some of them now go out from under the collective show's canopy and into the spotlight on their own?
"It's better to be safe than sorry," Nomi Ansari hints, "and I understand why the PFDC fashion week was cancelled." I was looking forward to it, but I think I'll come up with something equally fantastic on my own.
"I was quite enthusiastic about fashion week, and of course it doesn't feel good that it isn't happening," Mohsin Naveed Ranjha says. Designers need to display their most recent work, yet it keeps getting pushed back."
Designer Ali Xeeshan says he misses not only putting on a show during the event — and he knows how to put on a show! — but also the sense of community that fashion week fosters.
"I enjoy creating experiences, and organising a solo concert would necessitate much too much investment at this moment." Fashion week was going to be the best alternative for me, and the fact that it isn't happening is discouraging. On the other hand, we've grown accustomed to cancellations and rescheduling. Nothing is more important than one's health, and these challenges have become a part of our daily life. At fashion week, I had planned to debut a fresh new range of Western attire. Now I'll just put it up on the internet."
The internet vs. indigenous craft
And with that, the fashion spotlight has shifted back to the broad worlds of Instagram, Facebook, and online retailers. Designer Fahad Hussayn, who also plans to present a capsule collection of Western-wear with the PFDC, is currently photographing it and will post the results on Instagram.
Sania Maskatiya's CEO, Umair Tabani, admits that not being able to present their current collections on a runway is a "clear setback." The firm, on the other hand, is always launching new collections online and stocking them in their stores at the same time.
Many other businesses have started spending on innovative shoots in order to draw attention to themselves, as well as collaborating with local craftspeople to develop unique designs. During the initial Covid-19 wave, small-scale firms such as Blocked Textiles suspended production, but designer Afsheen Numair constructed a socially separated setting for her craftspeople and began to make stock, retailing via Instagram.
"At first, I chose to have consumers book and collect in order to reduce actual interaction," she explains, "and we only had an exhibit once the first wave had passed and things had started to open up." I've decreased stock and limited the amount of people who can access an exhibit at any given time, but I believe that people are now keen to buy. I believe there is a higher regard for design that is different from what is accessible on the high street."
Rastah, a high-end streetwear label, exploded in popularity during the Covid-19 pandemic. Local artisans, such as embroiderers, weavers, and block-printers, are employed by the company to create capsule lines of edgy streetwear that have been published in a number of international publications and worn by celebrities such as Riz Ahmed and French Montana. The international buzz drew attention to the brand, which quickly capitalised with some highly distinctive, uber-cool capsule collections.